"Clos des Goisses" by @champagne_philipponnat
L.V. vs. “ordinary”…
👨🎓 A "clos" is a French term for "a walled vineyard" and “Goisses" is a regional slang for "very steep vineyards". Being only 100 m in depth, the Clos des Goisses rises to an altitude of 60 m at its highest points, with a gradient of 30-45% depending on the location. It is planted with 2/3 Pinot Noir and 1/3 Chardonnay. No tractors can be used to work the soil.
You add to this its exposition to the South, plus, Mareuil-sur-Ay terroir and you realise, it has to be a remarkable champagne.
“Facing South, and so?” - you may ask. Well, the temperature there is about 1.5°C higher compared to the rest of the area. How’s that? The sun reflects its heat from the surface of the Marne river. Then, the clay-chalky surface works as a natural solar collector. So, as strange as it may sound, you do have a specific microclimate. And @charlesphilipponnat
knows how use it making an excellent “single-terroir” champagne.
The grapes always reach their maturity without extra manipulations. I’ve tasted the whole line of Philipponnat this summer and will post a photo later. It was a great experience!
But let’s go back to our tasting.
🍾The L.V. ("long vieillissement") - similar to Bollinger's R.D. and some others, spends more time on the lees than the normal version. These wines are often fresher, more elegant and complex. Ours was disgorged in 05.2015 and had 4.5 g/l of dosage.
Notes of cheese, apple, cherry-plum, mushrooms and apricot, being at the same time elegantly acidic. In the development - delicate tobacco notes with candied fruits along with orange and grapefruits. Complexity and freshness - all in one.
🍾 “Ordinary youngster” had the same blend and dosage, but was disgorged in 2013. You would guess, it meant nothing. Well, you’re wrong! Cheese and honey, very biscuit-ish full of wax, deep and noble mushroom notes, which didn’t dominate. Structural, with green tobacco followed by salinity and on the finish - larch on the aroma and in the bitterness on the palate. Yes, the similar style is there, but it’s a different wine!
Amazing experience! 👍