If you are dealing with uneven walls and floors that dont quite meet at 90* you can cheat certain things, within reason. This will depend on factors like wainscot and shadow boxes as well.
The floor slopes just over 1/4” down in this 40” run, which requires the cope to be scribed. I usually shove my piece into place, and run a line up it with a mechanical pencil.
Dont be surprised if the line is slightly curved, which can happen with taller baseboard that is solid wood, you can get slight cupping. This is why scribing in place helps over just taking a square and drawing a straight line.
I like to back up my copes with glue. Just run a bead of quick n thick moulding glue on the inner edge and spring fit it into place, then wipe the ooze with a rag around a red pry bar.
A final tip. Once you install a piece of baseboard on a slight angle, you wont be able to cut the other end square either. Make yourself a marking block (preacher) by cutting a piece of scrap jamb material or a board, that will transfer the line of the casing, to the front of the baseboard.
You can also use an angle gauge from the side of the casing to the top of the baseboard, but a preacher is faster in my opinion and has less room for error. The line is the line.
#moulding #carpentry #carpenter #installation #baseboard #base #scribing #coping #cope #carpentrytips #poplar
Breaking News......... Morning Fresh Not Just For Doing The Dishes 🤪
So if you’ve been wondering how I’m getting these 4” nails through well seasoned Australian Messmate 👌🏼 well here you go! Yes you can use bees wax or bar soap or wax, but the nail heats up pretty damn good & the waxes just melt off, so you could go oil but come on we’re not frying eggs 🍳 ha really it will just leave a nasty arse stain & I don’t know BUT I’m pretty sure you don’t want that bleeding trough your walls 😉, so grabbed this from under the kitchen sink, & as you can see as the nail drives home! The liquid soap builds up at the entry point, continuously lubricating the nail until it’s seated fully & I know 🥜 right but here’s the clincher 💯 if you get the concentrated one you use half as much 🤪
ha! But today I wasn’t out on site! I’ve been in the office today crackin on with a Ute loaf of paperwork! Quoted & landed another job today! Along with a bunch of other things! My brain is just about knackered! Pretty keen on putting the feet up & chillin for a bit! 😴
But if you find that the morning Fresh has gone missing from your kitchen 🥳 there is a fair chance that your partner has it...... or me it could possibly be me 🤪
Hey! Start using the Hashy! #woodworkingsquad
🥰 love checking out your latest projects 💯
#morningfresh #freshmorning #liquidsoap #framingnailer #hammer #carpentrytips #woodworkingtips #woodworkingtip #carpentryskills #carpentryaustralia #martineztools #martinezhammer #toolsofthetrade #galvenized #tradie #tradielife #aussietradie #mastercraftsman #worksmarternotharder #businessmanlife
Did the @samuraicarpenter
modification to my routers. Makes using them so much easier and opens the door to many more ways of using them.
Our workshop assistant Joe
So, I ran across this in my short basement. It’s a tool I used to shingle my house. Stick the tongue under a course and it will hold quite a few shingles within reach. I think I learned this back in the late 70’s. Anyone else do this?
(Only mentioning this bc it came up the other day) Don't cram your tape measure into corners to take your measurements. It's kinda hard to read and requires a teensy bit of guess work.
Instead, measure from one side, left or right, and put a mark at an easy-to-remember number. Then measure from the opposite side, and add that number to your first number. You'll have a perfect fit every time.
This is an old trick and seems pretty obvious, but I taught it to a guy the other day who has been woodworking for a few years. Hope it helps.
#trim #trimcarpentry #woodworking #carpentrytips #diy #homeimprovement
SWIPE ▶️ and there’s audio if you care 🔊 Some #carpentrytips
for scribing to stone. This is from the project that shows up under the tag #scribedwindowtrim
. This stage of scribing is admittedly rough. This is only to get the piece in the ballpark so that you can find the places it hits the stone and start taking off those spots a little at a time. (When I held this first attempt in place, it was mostly about 1/2” away- not even close) I make sure to leave extra material at deeper places such as joints in the stonework that are very deep. When in doubt, leave extra material. Something I didn’t mention in the third video is that I will purposefully tilt the scribe tool out of level at a deep horizontal feature such as a joint; pencil end slightly low at the bottom of a deep feature and pencil end slightly high at the top of a deep feature. This leaves more wood which you can always remove later. But if you hold it level and you are off (and I find that I am often off at those spots on the first pass) you will have cut out too much material and you will have a void. And that’s no fun.
Hope someone benefits from this.
I'm fitting the wainscoting underneath the drywall and want the seam to flush out. I've found that using tar paper strips is a useful tool for this type of shimming. I fold the tar paper the the desired thickness and leave a tab overhanging the edge of the plywood. This allows me to hold the piece in place over the framing member and test the fit before nailing. I don't have to worry about the pieces falling out of place. All the strips will be hidden by the chair rail. #tipoftheday #carpentrytips #wainscoting #sharingiscaring #seattle #remodel #tools #festool #walnut #woodworkibg #businessowner @pbellp
I used to write numbers down when I needed to remember them. Now I find myself just reaching for my phone to snap a pic. Here I am taking a pic of the position of the wood relative to the L-track so I can find it once the panels are back on.
The final stages of my wife’s art studio was fitting the 1st fix electrics, fibre glass roof, upvc windows and doors, facial and vented soffit boards, 22mm chip boards floor with laminate flooring on top, 100mm wall celotex insulation, 150mm floor and ceiling celotex insulation, plasterboard walls, plaster, paint, 2nd fix fuse board and electrics.
#artstudio #summerhouse #celotex #1stfix #2ndfix #chipboard #upvc #facia #soffit #fibreglassroof #thisiscarpentry #customcarpentry #carpentryuk #summerhouselife #carpentryskills #carpentrywork #customcarpentry #carpentrytips #carpentrydesign #englishcarpentry #building #gardenideas #office
Swipe 👉🏼 Oddly handy tip. The smooth finish on layers of prefinished moldings and cabinetry is slippery, and a little blob of this helps keep it from sliding around while measuring and cutting longer pieces of molding by yourself. A very tiny blob can be left behind the molding when it’s installed. You don’t have to go to an incredibly awesome art supply store like @risdstore
to get this stuff, but it’s more fun. Went there while we were at the last @jlclive
show in Providence, RI.
S W I P E This was one odd block in the run of blocking that needed to look thicker. (That drywall will be trimmed back and have a termination bead mudded on.) Once the scribe was cut with a 50 grit sanding disc in the grinder, a miter was cut on the edge and joined to the vertical block. Some glue is sticking out of the miter. When it’s dry, I will run the side of my nail set along the miter which slightly smushes the two sharp edges closed. It’s kinda cheating 🤫
Dirty hands are a sign of clean money
• Finishing Wood with Stain & Varnish •
So you can varnish and take care of your furniture yourself. You don’t need expensive tools or special skills. It’s easy to do and requires a bit of time. (I used my Sunday😁) Follow these steps(no shortcuts, sorry!) and you’ll get a flawless finish everytime!
1. Sanding: a good finish begins by sanding bare wood with a 100-grit sanding paper. This is crucial for achieving a uniform wood surface that’ll absorb stain evenly. It also smoothes out surface imperfections, which might show through the clear coat. You goal here is to eliminate the sawmill “burnish”(shiny surface left by the planer), smooth off rough wood fibres and sand out blemishes.
For hand sanding I used I sanding sponge, a sanding pad for curves and a folded piece of sandpaper for crevices.
2. Brush on a sanding sealer: brush a sealer in the direction of the grain, always! Shine a strong light on the wet surface to highlight areas you might have missed(they’ll be dull). Immediately “tip-off” the wet finish by stroking the entire surface from end to end with long, light, overlapping strokes of the wet brush. That’ll even out the coat and help eliminate brush marks. If you see brush marks after tipping off, leave them and sand them out later.
Work quickly; sanding sealers dry fast!
3. Finish up with oil-based wood varnish: brush on the wood varnish with the same techniques you used for the sanding sealer. If you’re working in a clean room and did a good job, one coat will be cool. Let it dry overnight.
To add another coat of wood varnish, prepare the surface as you did after the sanding sealer, including sanding the finish with extra fine sanding paper l, dusting the surfaces and wiping everything down with a clean cloth(I use cotton painter’s rags- sold at screen printing stores in Goa)Then add another coat of varnish!
⚠️Always sand/brush in the direction of the grain⚠️
#interiordesign #interiordesignertips #diy #interiordesigngoals #bedroomgoals #homegoals #woodworking #woodwork #woodworkskills #carpentrytips #lifeasadesigner #ilovewhatido #myhustle #goa #diy #interiordesigneringoa #furniture #iphonex
Scroll Sideways. The old floor joists that are set in the stonework will remain exposed but the old masonry between the joists is to be covered. One option was to run drywall up between the joists. Instead, blocking made of reclaimed lumber of the same species was installed. It could appear to be a continual beam that the joists are connected to. Because of the variation in thickness of the blocking material, the front edge was set to a string line. The plane of the face of the wood is set 1/2” proud of the finish face of the drywall. “Tear-away” bead is a plastic termination strip that the drywall finisher attaches at the upper edge of the drywall where it meets the row of blocking. Attached to the edge bead is a small exposed temporary plastic strip that keeps compound (most of it) from getting on the blocking. After the last coat of compound is sanded, the white plastic strip is torn off and a perfectly clean edge of drywall is left. Some of the reclaimed wood was used around the door opening to build up the framing for aesthetic purposes. This mahogany door will be trimmed with the reclaimed wood.
Nail the wood to the scaffold board easiest way to rip some hard wood with out power tools🤷🏼♀️🥄
The exterior trim on these windows was a bit tedious. Had to mark parts of the stones that stuck out too far with a scrap and cut them down so the pre-made @boraltruexterior
frame could be applied. They were sized to have a light 1/8” gap around the window. Used a @kregjig
to join the top joints of the frame and @grkfasteners
trim screws at the bottom of the frame as well as for connecting the frame to the building.
While this is pretty basic for experienced carpenters, I’ve seen a lot of young guys/gals struggle with laying out stair stringers. One common mistake Is forgetting to take off the thickness of the tread on the bottom and the thickness of the riser on top. In this case, were using 2x material for the treads so the bottom riser height needs to be 1-1/2” smaller than the rest. Hope this helps anyone who has struggled laying out stairs.